Why US Sunscreens Lag Behind and Why It Matters for Melasma and Skin of Color

At the 2026 Masterclasses in Dermatology Annual Meeting, Jane Yoo, MD, MPP, delivered a clinically grounded update on sunscreen filters and hyperpigmentation. Her message was direct: When it comes to UVA1 and visible light protection, US sunscreen options remain limited.

Dr Yoo emphasized that sunscreen in the United States is regulated as a drug, not a cosmetic, significantly affecting filter availability. Currently, there are 17 UV filters available in the United States compared with 29 in the European Union. “The US has only 1 filter that is good for protection against UVA, avobenzone, which is unstable.”

This discrepancy affects real-world formulations. For example, international versions of popular products, such as Biore UV Aqua Rich and ISDIN Fusion Water, contain Tinosorb S, Uvinul T 150, and Uvinul A Plus—filters that provide broader UVA and visible light protection but are not US Food and Drug Administration approved. US versions rely heavily on avobenzone stabilized with UVB filters like octocrylene.

Dr Yoo underscored why this matters clinically. Hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma are not driven by UVB alone. “Visible light, especially high-energy visible light (HEVL), and long-wave UVA (UVA1) play a key role in melasma pathophysiology.”  Visible light (400–700 nm), including blue light (400–500 nm), can independently generate reactive oxygen species, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and MMP-1 expression.

For patients with skin of color, this has major implications. Visible light is a potent trigger of melanocyte activation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Dr Yoo was unequivocal: “Tinted sunscreens are a must,” as iron oxides and pigmentary titanium dioxide protect HEVL and UVA1.

Iron oxides in tinted formulations not only improve cosmetic elegance by minimizing white cast but also add functional protection against visible light. Modern filters such as bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine (Uvinul A Plus), which absorb between 350–425 nm, extend protection into long UVA and portions of visible light, further improving pigmentation outcomes when combined with other filters.

Dr Yoo also touched on infrared radiation and heat. Although intense heat contributes to melanogenesis, there are no validated methods to assess infrared protection, and data remain limited.  Nonetheless, patients with melasma exposed to occupational heat, such as cooks, athletes, and drivers, should be counseled accordingly.

Her bottom line for dermatologists? Not all broad-spectrum sunscreens are created equal. For hyperpigmentation, melasma, and skin of color, prioritize tinted formulations with iron oxides and long UVA coverage. Additional filters are on the horizon; however, until additional filters are approved in the United States, clinicians must guide patients carefully through an imperfect formulary landscape.

For more meeting coverage, visit the Masterclasses in Dermatology newsroom.

Reference

Yoo J. Sunscreen filters: what's new. Presented at: Masterclasses in Dermatology; February 19–22, 2026; Sarasota, FL.